Door and Window Security: How to Stop Break-Ins (2026)

Most break-ins are not clever. Someone tries a door or window, and if it opens or gives way with a kick, they go in. That is good news, because it means simple, cheap upgrades to your doors and windows stop a lot of them. Security professionals call this the delay layer: make getting in slow and noisy, and most people give up or get caught. This guide covers where homes are weak and the products that fix it.

Our picks at a glance

Product	Type	Best for	Installation
Schlage Arrive Smart Wi-Fi Deadbolt	Smart deadbolt	Front door	Replace deadbolt	Check price
August Smart Lock + Connect	Smart lock add-on	Front door	Interior only	Check price
MSIC Global SecuraDoor	Door bar	Hinged doors	None	Check price
Ideal Security Patio Door Bar	Patio bar	Sliding doors	Two screws	Check price
SABRE Door Stop Alarm	Wedge alarm	Inward-opening doors	None	Check price

The best door and window security products

Where doors actually fail

When a locked door is kicked in, it usually is not the lock that gives way. It is the frame, where the deadbolt goes into a thin strip of wood held by short screws. Fix that and the same lock becomes much harder to defeat:

• Strike plate screws: swap the short screws in the strike plate and hinges for 3-inch screws that bite into the stud behind the frame. It costs a few dollars and takes ten minutes.
• Reinforced strike plate or door jamb kit: a long metal plate spreads the force of a kick along the frame. See reinforcement kits
• A real deadbolt: look for an ANSI/BHMA Grade 1 or Grade 2 rating on the package. Grade 1 is the toughest residential rating.
• Solid doors: exterior doors should be solid wood, steel or fiberglass, not hollow-core interior doors.
• Glass near the lock: if there is glass within reach of the thumb-turn, someone can break it and reach in. Security film or a keyed lock helps.

Windows

• Lock them. An unlocked window needs no tools at all, and back windows are out of sight of neighbors.
• Add secondary locks or pins to sliding windows so they cannot be forced or lifted. A cut dowel in the track works too.
• Window and door sensors with an alarm, even a cheap standalone one, make an entry loud. See window alarms
• Trim bushes that hide ground-floor windows from the street and neighbors.
• Never block windows that are emergency exits, especially in bedrooms. Any bar or grille must open quickly from inside.

Do a 30-minute walk-through like a guard

When a guard takes over a new site, the first thing they do is walk it. Do the same with your home, once in daylight and once after dark:

1. Walk the outside and try every door and window as if you were locked out. Note anything that moves, rattles or opens.
2. Look for hiding spots: bushes against windows, dark side yards, a fence that hides the back door from the street.
3. Check your lighting at night. Every exterior door should be lit, ideally with a motion light.
4. Look for ladders, tools or trash cans someone could use to reach a second-floor window, and lock them away.
5. Check the garage: is the door to the house as strong as your front door? Is the emergency release on the garage door reachable from outside?
6. Look at your house from the street. Can people see packages, valuables or an open garage full of tools?
7. Write down what you found and fix the cheapest, biggest problems first, usually strike plate screws, lights and locks.

Repeat it every year, and whenever you move. It costs nothing, and it is exactly what a professional would charge you to do.

Smart locks: what to know before you buy

• Batteries: most smart locks run on AA batteries that last months. All good ones warn you when they are low, and most keep a physical key or a backup way in.
• Wi-Fi vs. Bluetooth: Wi-Fi lets you lock and check the door from anywhere. Bluetooth-only locks need a hub for remote access.
• Codes, not keys: give each person their own code and delete it when they no longer need it. You always know who has access.
• Security settings: use a strong account password and two-factor authentication in the app, just as you would for your bank.

Fire safety and renters

Every security upgrade must still let you get out fast in a fire. Door bars and braces should come off in seconds from the inside, and bedroom windows must stay usable as exits. If you rent, check your lease before changing locks or drilling. Many landlords must have a key, and some places have rules about lock changes. Removable bars, wedges and over-the-deadbolt smart locks are usually renter-friendly.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best way to secure a front door?

A Grade 1 or Grade 2 deadbolt, a reinforced strike plate with 3-inch screws into the stud, and a solid exterior door. A video doorbell adds detection on top.

Do door security bars really work?

Yes, from the inside. In hands-on testing, good bars and floor braces stopped the door from opening under force. They only work when you are home, so they add to good locks rather than replacing them.

Are smart locks safe?

Good ones are as strong as regular deadbolts, and codes are easier to control than physical keys. Use a strong app password and two-factor authentication, and keep the batteries fresh.

How do I secure a sliding glass door?

Use a bar in the track or a patio door bar, add an anti-lift lock or pins so the door cannot be lifted off its track, and consider a door sensor or alarm.